The Coricancha: Parts 2 and 3

This is the second in a series of blog posts and videos about the Coricancha, or “Great Enclosure,” located in Cusco, Peru. Read the first post here.

The Coricancha is one of those historical sites that allow you to truly appreciate a bygone era – not just by looking at old ruins or perusing informational plaques, but by literally feeling the spiritual energy of the past. When I visited, I spent my first half-hour in a blissful trance, overcome with wonder that I was really there – physically standing inside the Great Enclosure of the Incas. After a year of researching Peru’s history, I had often imagined how this visit would feel, but I never expected to have such an intense emotional response. The weather was perfect that day – clear and warm – and the afternoon sky seemed to make the Inca stones glow as if with their own energy. Strolling around the interior courtyard, I felt the details from my research begin to play out as a drama behind my eyes. At every turn, I almost expected to happen upon the ghost of an Inca priest or Spanish conquistador.

The Coricancha: Part I

One of my favorite places to visit during my time in Cusco, Peru, was the ruins of the Coricancha. Five hundred years ago, this temple was the most important huaca – or sacred place – of the entire Inca empire. In this first of several blog posts and (embedded) video segments, we’ll take a look at the Coricancha’s distinctive exterior, including the exquisite masonry of the curved western-facing wall and the zig-zagging canals that it overlooks.  In following segments, I’ll lead you on a tour through the Coricancha’s courtyard, impressive halls, chambers, and trapezoidal doorways – pointing out the features I found most interesting or mysterious.

The Coricancha resides just a couple blocks south of Cusco’s Plaza de Armas and is an easy and charming walk from the main square. Most

The Lost Sun Towers of Cusco

Most visitors to Cusco, Peru, are aware that the Inca studied and worshipped the cosmos. For those who stroll about the historic Plaza de Armas, it’s practically common knowledge that, five hundred years ago, Inca priests predicted astronomical events with great precision, and that their engineers built temples and roads that aligned perfectly with these phenomena. But one feat of Inca astronomy and engineering that’s perhaps less well known is the sun towers that may have once marked such cosmic events from atop the ridges surrounding Cusco.

According to Spanish accounts from the 1500s, as many as 16 of

Qenq'o: A Sacred Site in Cusco

Qenq’o is a pre-Spanish ceremonial center located 2 ½ miles north of Cusco – about a half-hour’s walk from the fortress of Sacsayhuaman. On a rainy afternoon, I had the chance to explore the large amphitheater, as well as the caves that were hollowed out of the boulder. Check out my video to see these!

Qenq'o is a huge limestone outcrop that has been carved into an

The Mysteries of Sacsayhuaman: Caves, Tunnels, Stairs, and Thrones

Sacsayhuaman is one of the great archaeological secrets of Peru – and of the world for that matter. The megalithic stones that form its zig-zagging walls beg the question of how, why, and by whom such a spectacular citadel was built. But for the curious visitor, the northeastern edge of the complex offers an experience that is just as unique and mysterious as the famous walls. In 2017, I had the opportunity to visit and explore Sacsayhuaman’s network of caves, tunnels, stairs, and thrones.

On that cold, rainy afternoon, I spent several hours hiking around the backside of Sacsayhuaman. To reach this lesser known part of the complex, one only needs to traverse the wide, grassy plaza, then climb the long, stone stairway to the top of the mound.

Sacsayhuaman: Inca Fortress, Ceremonial Center, or Alien Landing Pad?

One of the most impressive pre-Columbian ruins in Peru is Sacsayhuaman (SACK-say-wuh-MON). This massive structure overlooks Cusco from the north and, according to some sources, is the largest megalithic project ever completed in the western hemisphere. Many historians believe it was built as an Inca fortress or ceremonial center, but its size and grandeur have stimulated other, less orthodox explanations, as well. Something everyone can agree upon is that Sacsayhuaman has astounded generations of visitors since the conquistadors arrived 500 years ago. Today, it is a must-see for any visitor to Cusco who is interested in history, architecture, and ancient mysteries.

Supposing Sacsayhuaman was designed as a fortress, its builders could hardly have chosen a more strategic location. Situated 1000 feet above Cusco – and more than two miles above sea level – Sacsayhuaman would have been a challenging objective for attacking forces. On its three sides are steep slopes covered in thick vegetation. Breathing hard from my 30-minute climb to the site, I couldn’t help thinking these factors would work to the advantage of anyone defending the stronghold. Moreover, its summit offers a commanding view of the valley. When I reached its top, looking down at the Cusco, I could clearly make out the Plaza de Armas at the city’s center, as well as mountaintops many miles away.  

The Cathedral Basilica

The Cathedral Basilica is one of Cusco’s best-known sites, and easily familiar to anyone who has been to the city. Situated on the eastern edge of the Plaza de Armas, this large and beautiful Renaissance style structure dominates the historic district’s skyline. During my recent visit there, I spent many hours passing beneath its spires, resting upon broad steps, or using it as a backdrop in my photos of the local culture.

I was introduced to the cathedral a couple years ago when I began researching my upcoming novel. By the time I boarded a plane for Cusco last October, I had probably spent hundreds of hours imagining myself (through the eyes of my characters) gazing up at the impressive sight. So, when I actually saw the cathedral in person, it was literally a dream come true. On my way to my hotel, while gazing out the windshield of a taxi, the architectural masterpiece rose impressively into view.