The Moonstone Trek: Part 1 - The Road to Huaracondo

This is Part 1 of my video series: “The Moonstone Trek: My Journey from Cusco to Machu Picchu.” In 2017, I went to Peru to learn about its history and culture. As part of that visit, I undertook a trek from the ancient capital of the Incas to their famous “lost city” in the Andean cloud forest. My route followed an Inca road system once used by royal chaskis (runners) who carried information and goods across the largest pre-Columbian empire in the Americas.  For five days, I traveled by bus, train, and foot over mountains and rivers that range from 7,000 to more than 15,000 feet above sea level. Along the way, I explored archaeological sites, visited market towns and rural villages, and admired breathtaking views of glacier-capped mountains and the brilliant Milky Way. Join me on this enchanting journey down one of the lesser-known branches of the Inca Trail and discover the geography, architecture, and people of this great land.

In this episode, we explore the colorful markets of Izcuchaca and Huaracondo. Along the way, I also make a stop at the Inca ruins known as Quillarumiyoc (the Moonstone of the Andes); that visit is documented in my video here. 

Quillarumiyoc: The Moonstone of the Andes

Quillarumiyoc is a pre-Columbian archaeological site located 30 miles northwest of Cusco, Peru. It lies upon the plain of Anta, a rich agricultural area where potatoes, barley, and quinoa have been grown for centuries. Farmers inhabit the area now, but 500 years ago the Incas visited this site to worship the cosmos, and perhaps the moon goddess (Quilla) especially. Indeed, Quillarumiyoc is Quechua for “stone of the moon,” and its most distinctive feature is a crescent that is carved in the limestone rock. But in reality, very little is known about the site, including whether Quillarumiyoc was its original name, or if lunar worship truly was its main purpose. Few tourists visit the complex nowadays, but those who do are treated to a spectacular display of stone terraces, water channels, caves, and thrones set against the backdrop of rolling hills and forest.

I came here in October 2017 at the start of my week-long trek through the Andes Mountains. My group was traveling by bus to