Sacsayhuaman
is one of the great archaeological secrets of Peru – and of the world for that
matter. The megalithic stones that form its zig-zagging walls beg the question
of how, why, and by whom such a spectacular citadel was built. But for the
curious visitor, the northeastern edge of the complex offers an experience that
is just as unique and mysterious as the famous walls. In 2017, I had the
opportunity to visit and explore Sacsayhuaman’s network of caves, tunnels, stairs, and thrones.
On that
cold, rainy afternoon, I spent several hours hiking around the backside of
Sacsayhuaman. To reach this lesser known part of the complex, one only needs to
traverse the wide, grassy plaza, then climb the long, stone stairway to the top
of the mound.
(Above and below) Looking north from Sacsayhuaman's megalithic walls.
The curved outcrop is called the "suchuna" or "sliders."
The first site
to greet visitors is the “suchuna” or sliders. These strange geological
features are smooth and polished in the shapes of, you got it, slides. Scores
of local school children had already recognized this fact, and were busy capitalizing
upon the opportunity when I visited. According to some sources, the “suchuna”
rock is made of limestone (like much of Sacsayhuaman), while others insist it
is volcanic. I wasn’t sure. Nor did I know what to make of the outcrop’s many
striations, which appear glacial (although I doubt they are). What is the mineralogical
composition of this outcrop, and how did it form?
(Above) The "suchuna" sliders.
Moving on,
I discovered a large circular arena that may have been the location for
ceremonies. Multiple throne-like structures pepper the area, some of which have
been created through placement of stones, while others have been carved into
outcrops. What was the purpose of this structure?
Nearby, I
found a feature that I recognized from my research. Carved into a large boulder
are what appear to be upside-down steps. The precision of these cuts is
extraordinary. But how does one explain their inverted orientation? Several
nearby boulders – many of which are the size of a house – appear to have been
violently overturned. Various edges and rails have been carved into them, but
at all angles and without any apparent regularity. Why was this done? Are the
carvings purely symbolic, and the seemingly random arrangement actually
purposeful and intended? Or is this disjointed appearance the result of some
massive cataclysm that overturned the earth, depositing these features in their
current, haphazard manner?
(Above) The mysterious upside-down steps.
(Below) The precision edges carved into the (overturned?) boulders.
Leaving
the upside-down stairs, I explored Sacsayhuaman’s caves. These contain various
trapezoid and rectangular niches, possibly for holding mummies or offerings. They
are also cut precisely and, apparently, in a random fashion. If you visit, be
sure to take a flashlight!
(Above) About to enter one of the tunnels (before realizing I'd forgotten my flashlight).
My outing
ended with a stroll around the arena, where I glimpsed several “throne-like”
structures. Once more, I could not help but think that many of the stones seemed out
of place. Evidently, Peruvian authorities have moved some of them in an attempt
to improve the experience for visitors like myself. If true, this complicates
the efforts of archaeologists who study the ruins.
(Above) The throne-like structures that pepper the outcrops around Sacsayhuaman.
(Below) Looking north towards Sacsayhuaman's distinctive "zig-zagging" walls.
When I
left Sacsayhuaman, I had more questions than answers. Today, as I write these
words, I have even more questions. This site, like so many in Peru, contains riddles
that have yet to be solved by archaeologists. Whoever built Sacsayhuaman did so
with great intention, reverence, and engineering brilliance. It is a must-see
for lovers of history and mystery, and I hope to return someday with more
answers than questions.
Till next time, don't stop exploring!
Andrew C. Katen
© 2018 Andrew C.
Katen. All rights reserved. Feel free to republish so long as credit is given.
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