The
Cathedral Basilica is one of Cusco’s best-known sites, and easily familiar to
anyone who has been to the city. Situated on the eastern edge of the Plaza de Armas, this large and beautiful
Renaissance style structure dominates the historic district’s skyline. During
my recent visit there, I spent many hours passing beneath its spires, resting
upon broad steps, or using it as a backdrop in my photos of the local culture.
I was
introduced to the cathedral a couple years ago when I began researching my
upcoming novel. By the time I boarded a plane for Cusco last October, I had
probably spent hundreds of hours imagining myself (through the eyes of my
characters) gazing up at the impressive sight. So, when I actually saw the cathedral in person, it was literally a dream come true. On my way to my hotel,
while gazing out the windshield of a taxi, the architectural masterpiece rose impressively
into view.
The very
next morning I stepped through the wooden doors to investigate the cathedral’s
interior. For several hours, I strolled the stone floor, gawking at ornamental alcoves,
paintings, carvings, and colossal masonry – desperately trying to stamp the
stunning images into my mind. Since photography is prohibited inside the
cathedral, I knew my memory of this place might have to last a lifetime.
Now for a
quick overview of the cathedral’s history…
The
decision to build it was made on March 23, 1534 – the very day that Cusco was
formally adopted as a Spanish city. Construction began in 1559 and required a
century to complete. Materials were primarily sourced from the Palace of
Wiracocha (the 8th sapa inca) – on whose grounds the cathedral is
built – and the citadel of Sacsayhuaman.
The
cathedral was commissioned by the Spanish to celebrate a Catholic god, and to
help extinguish the pagan beliefs of the native. But the indigenous workers
took every opportunity to weave Andean culture into the Christian tapestry. For
instance, a carving of a jaguar adorns one of the doors. A statue of the
crucifixion bears a localized (and ironically pagan-sounding) title, El Señor de Los Temblores, or “The Lord
of the Earthquakes,” for its alleged power to ward off tremors. In one
painting, the Virgin Mary is depicted as Pachamama
(or “Mother Earth”) by her mountain-shaped dress with river-like hem. In
another, titled “The Last Supper” by Marcos Zapata, the apostles are eating cuy (guinea pig) and drinking chicha (corn beer), both distinctly
Andean fares. (The picture below shows a similar piece of art that I found on
the wall of a restaurant in Aguas
Calientes.)
A couple
of travel “tips” for those planning to visit the cathedral:
- Admission is NOT included as part of the Boleto Turístico (the well-known multi-site sold in Cusco); but it only cost an extra 25 soles (roughly $8).
- Consider hiring a guide. The building’s rich and deep history justifies paying a handful of soles to hear the stories and perspectives of a Cusqueño.
Till next
time, don’t stop exploring!
Andrew C.
Katen
© Andrew
C. Katen, 2017. Feel free to republish so long as credit is given.
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