Qenq'o: A Sacred Site in Cusco

Qenq’o is a pre-Spanish ceremonial center located 2 ½ miles north of Cusco – about a half-hour’s walk from the fortress of Sacsayhuaman. On a rainy afternoon, I had the chance to explore the large amphitheater, as well as the caves that were hollowed out of the boulder. Check out my video to see these!

Qenq'o is a huge limestone outcrop that has been carved into an

The Mysteries of Sacsayhuaman: Caves, Tunnels, Stairs, and Thrones

Sacsayhuaman is one of the great archaeological secrets of Peru – and of the world for that matter. The megalithic stones that form its zig-zagging walls beg the question of how, why, and by whom such a spectacular citadel was built. But for the curious visitor, the northeastern edge of the complex offers an experience that is just as unique and mysterious as the famous walls. In 2017, I had the opportunity to visit and explore Sacsayhuaman’s network of caves, tunnels, stairs, and thrones.

On that cold, rainy afternoon, I spent several hours hiking around the backside of Sacsayhuaman. To reach this lesser known part of the complex, one only needs to traverse the wide, grassy plaza, then climb the long, stone stairway to the top of the mound.

Sacsayhuaman: Inca Fortress, Ceremonial Center, or Alien Landing Pad?

One of the most impressive pre-Columbian ruins in Peru is Sacsayhuaman (SACK-say-wuh-MON). This massive structure overlooks Cusco from the north and, according to some sources, is the largest megalithic project ever completed in the western hemisphere. Many historians believe it was built as an Inca fortress or ceremonial center, but its size and grandeur have stimulated other, less orthodox explanations, as well. Something everyone can agree upon is that Sacsayhuaman has astounded generations of visitors since the conquistadors arrived 500 years ago. Today, it is a must-see for any visitor to Cusco who is interested in history, architecture, and ancient mysteries.

Supposing Sacsayhuaman was designed as a fortress, its builders could hardly have chosen a more strategic location. Situated 1000 feet above Cusco – and more than two miles above sea level – Sacsayhuaman would have been a challenging objective for attacking forces. On its three sides are steep slopes covered in thick vegetation. Breathing hard from my 30-minute climb to the site, I couldn’t help thinking these factors would work to the advantage of anyone defending the stronghold. Moreover, its summit offers a commanding view of the valley. When I reached its top, looking down at the Cusco, I could clearly make out the Plaza de Armas at the city’s center, as well as mountaintops many miles away.  

The Cathedral Basilica

The Cathedral Basilica is one of Cusco’s best-known sites, and easily familiar to anyone who has been to the city. Situated on the eastern edge of the Plaza de Armas, this large and beautiful Renaissance style structure dominates the historic district’s skyline. During my recent visit there, I spent many hours passing beneath its spires, resting upon broad steps, or using it as a backdrop in my photos of the local culture.

I was introduced to the cathedral a couple years ago when I began researching my upcoming novel. By the time I boarded a plane for Cusco last October, I had probably spent hundreds of hours imagining myself (through the eyes of my characters) gazing up at the impressive sight. So, when I actually saw the cathedral in person, it was literally a dream come true. On my way to my hotel, while gazing out the windshield of a taxi, the architectural masterpiece rose impressively into view.

Calle Hatunrumiyoc: Street of the Great Stone

One of the best examples of the megalithic stonework of pre-Columbian Peru is found along Cusco’s Calle Hatunrumiyoc, or “Street of the Great Stone.”

Located just east of the Plaza de Armas, this charming pedestrian alley is flanked by walls of large, polygonal stones that typify the “imperial” style of masonry assembled by a pre-Spanish civilization. Fashioned from green diorite, the blocks are set with mind-boggling precision. No mortar was used, yet their joints are so tight that a knife blade cannot be inserted between them. Perhaps most extraordinarily, these walls have survived at five centuries of earthquakes that devastated many Spanish (and even contemporary) structures.

The Andean Cross: An Old and Mysterious Symbol

           One of the oldest and most mysterious symbols in Peru is the Andean Cross. This geometric design is seen throughout the country’s textiles, jewelry, and architecture, including several ancient places and holy temples. The cross is examined in many books and websites, too. During my recent trip to Peru, I saw the symbol in nearly every shop or market I visited (and I came home with numerous souvenirs to prove it!).

I was introduced to the Andean Cross long before I visited Peru, back when I first began researching the Incas. Each account I read seemed to present a different interpretation of the design. Some suggested a religious meaning, others spiritual or cosmic, and a few purely geometric. When I arrived in Cusco, I asked several locals – from storekeepers to cultural experts – and got just as many answers!

In this blog/video post, I'll share some of the most common interrpetations.

The Stonework of Calle Inca Roca

            One of the many spectacular sites that I visited during my recent trip to Cusco was Calle Inca Roca. Located just east of the Plaza de Armas, this pedestrian alley features the impressive megalithic stonework of Peru’s pre-Columbian (pre-European) time. For the tourist, this street also provides a unique bonus: the patterns of two of the Andes’ most spiritually symbolic animals are camouflaged within the stonework.

I discovered Calle Inca Roca by chance during my first morning in Cusco. Setting out early from my hotel, I ventured into the San Blas district, a beautiful and historic neighborhood popular for its artisan culture. I was on the hunt for breakfast, and my guidebook suggested Jack’s Café Bar for newly arrived tourists. (Their review was spot-on, by the way. Jack’s food is delicious, safe, and affordable – and the customer service is great.)

With a full belly, I set out for the Cathedral, retracing my footsteps west along Calle Hatunrumiyoc, or “Street of the Great Stone.” Along the way, I discovered the twelve angle-stone, which is probably the single most famous example of pre-Columbian stonework in Cusco. Clearly named for its remarkable shape, this boulder is emplaced in the street’s southern wall. On that day, it was crowded with tourists. So, I took several photos “from the hip,” and then decided to return early the next morning (which, by the way, is the best time to view Cusco’s sites).