The Cathedral Basilica

The Cathedral Basilica is one of Cusco’s best-known sites, and easily familiar to anyone who has been to the city. Situated on the eastern edge of the Plaza de Armas, this large and beautiful Renaissance style structure dominates the historic district’s skyline. During my recent visit there, I spent many hours passing beneath its spires, resting upon broad steps, or using it as a backdrop in my photos of the local culture.

I was introduced to the cathedral a couple years ago when I began researching my upcoming novel. By the time I boarded a plane for Cusco last October, I had probably spent hundreds of hours imagining myself (through the eyes of my characters) gazing up at the impressive sight. So, when I actually saw the cathedral in person, it was literally a dream come true. On my way to my hotel, while gazing out the windshield of a taxi, the architectural masterpiece rose impressively into view.

Calle Hatunrumiyoc: Street of the Great Stone

One of the best examples of the megalithic stonework of pre-Columbian Peru is found along Cusco’s Calle Hatunrumiyoc, or “Street of the Great Stone.”

Located just east of the Plaza de Armas, this charming pedestrian alley is flanked by walls of large, polygonal stones that typify the “imperial” style of masonry assembled by a pre-Spanish civilization. Fashioned from green diorite, the blocks are set with mind-boggling precision. No mortar was used, yet their joints are so tight that a knife blade cannot be inserted between them. Perhaps most extraordinarily, these walls have survived at five centuries of earthquakes that devastated many Spanish (and even contemporary) structures.

The Andean Cross: An Old and Mysterious Symbol

           One of the oldest and most mysterious symbols in Peru is the Andean Cross. This geometric design is seen throughout the country’s textiles, jewelry, and architecture, including several ancient places and holy temples. The cross is examined in many books and websites, too. During my recent trip to Peru, I saw the symbol in nearly every shop or market I visited (and I came home with numerous souvenirs to prove it!).

I was introduced to the Andean Cross long before I visited Peru, back when I first began researching the Incas. Each account I read seemed to present a different interpretation of the design. Some suggested a religious meaning, others spiritual or cosmic, and a few purely geometric. When I arrived in Cusco, I asked several locals – from storekeepers to cultural experts – and got just as many answers!

In this blog/video post, I'll share some of the most common interrpetations.

The Stonework of Calle Inca Roca

            One of the many spectacular sites that I visited during my recent trip to Cusco was Calle Inca Roca. Located just east of the Plaza de Armas, this pedestrian alley features the impressive megalithic stonework of Peru’s pre-Columbian (pre-European) time. For the tourist, this street also provides a unique bonus: the patterns of two of the Andes’ most spiritually symbolic animals are camouflaged within the stonework.

I discovered Calle Inca Roca by chance during my first morning in Cusco. Setting out early from my hotel, I ventured into the San Blas district, a beautiful and historic neighborhood popular for its artisan culture. I was on the hunt for breakfast, and my guidebook suggested Jack’s Café Bar for newly arrived tourists. (Their review was spot-on, by the way. Jack’s food is delicious, safe, and affordable – and the customer service is great.)

With a full belly, I set out for the Cathedral, retracing my footsteps west along Calle Hatunrumiyoc, or “Street of the Great Stone.” Along the way, I discovered the twelve angle-stone, which is probably the single most famous example of pre-Columbian stonework in Cusco. Clearly named for its remarkable shape, this boulder is emplaced in the street’s southern wall. On that day, it was crowded with tourists. So, I took several photos “from the hip,” and then decided to return early the next morning (which, by the way, is the best time to view Cusco’s sites).

The Pre-Incan History of Peru

When you hear "Peru" and "history" together, do you automatically think "Incas"? Does the image of Machu Picchu instantly pop into your mind?  

If so, you're definitely not alone.  Most people who are basically familiar with Peru would probably make this association. Prior to year and a half ago, I certainly would have. 

But after a bit of research, I've come to realize that Peru was home to many other great civilizations besides just the Incas. In fact, the Incas only occupied a few hundred years of Peru's past, and they only ruled as an "empire" for a century or so.  Almost 5000 years before the Incas, the western hemisphere's oldest "great civilization" arose in Peru, along with the oldest city!

In my latest "vlog," I overview several major civilizations that existed long before the "Land of the Incas" (all dates are approximate, of course). Since this is a broad topic, I've only highlighted a few of their influences upon later cultures in Peru.  Discussed in the vlog are:

• Norte Chico (3500 B.C. to 1500 B.C.)
• Chavín (1500 B.C. to 200 B.C.
• Nazca (200 B.C. to 600 A.D.)
• Moche (100 A.D. to 700 A.D.)
• Tiwanaku (300 B.C. to 1000 A.D.)
• Wari (500 A.D. to 1000 A.D.)
• Followed by the "Time of War" (political instability, conflict, and environmental change)

Many other Peruvian civilizations have been studied by archaeologists, while some undoubtedly await discovery. Who knows which one Patrick Eaton might stumble across in his next adventure!

Till next time, don't stop exploring.

Andrew C. Katen

Altitude Training

To prepare for my upcoming trip to Peru, I am conducting altitude training in the mountains of Colorado.

As a resident of the Centennial State, I'm fortunate to live within an hour of amazing places like Grand Mesa National Forest. This natural wonderland encompasses some 450,000 square miles of scenic forest and grassland, and includes bear, elk, deer, lynx, cougars, bighorn sheep, and eagles. It also comprises the Grand Mesa, one of the world's largest flat-topped mountains with an elevation of 11,332 feet (more than 2 miles) above sea level.

Grand Mesa's high elevation makes it a perfect place to prepare for my upcoming trip to Peru. During my stay in Cusco, I'll be sleeping at just over 11,152 feet -- almost exactly the elevation of Grand Mesa! (Despite being known as the "Cloud City," Machu Picchu is situated at just 8000 feet.) 

For many travelers, a visit to Cusco can present quite a physical challenge. Some develop acute mountain sickness (AMS), aka high altitude pulmonary edema, which is caused by lower oxygen levels and decreased air pressure. Mild symptoms of AMS include nausea, headache, and fatigue. The Peruvian remedy is typically lots of water and rest, acclimatization before strenuous activity, and coca leaves. But for some, AMS can become far more uncomfortable, requiring treatment with acetazolamide and/or relocation to lower elevation.

And Cusco's only the start of my high elevation journey... In order to view some of the most spectacular ruins and vistas, I'll hike (and sleep) along Incan roads that top out well above 15,000 feet. Even for the physically fit, this extreme altitude can wreak havoc on an adventurous traveler's plans. As a Colorado resident, I'll hopefully be somewhat immune from this inconvenience. But I won't find out for sure until I get there and start hiking!

In the meantime, I hope you'll join me on Facebook and Twitter as I continue to prepare for my visit to the Land of the Incas. And I'll continue to post from Peru, as well as during the weeks leading up to the release of my next adventure novel.

Till next time, never stop exploring!

Andrew C. Katen

Travel and Adventure Book Giveaway Roundup

Greetings Fellow Explorers,

I hope you enjoyed the preview of my travel-adventure novel,Chaturanga. If you like what you've read so far, you'll really enjoy what's in store for Patrick as he continues his journey across the Silk Road and Central Asia.

On a related note, I'm off to Peru in a few weeks to finish up research for the sequel to Chaturanga. I'll be taking lots of photos and video along the way. Follow my adventure on Facebook and Twitter!

Most importantly, I'd love to hear about your own interest in adventure and exploration. Since we were all drawn to the "Great Adventure and Book Giveaway," my guess is we have a lot in common!

Cheers,

Andrew C. Katen