Quillarumiyoc
is a pre-Columbian archaeological site located 30 miles northwest of Cusco,
Peru. It lies upon the plain of Anta, a rich agricultural area where potatoes,
barley, and quinoa have been grown for centuries. Farmers inhabit the area now,
but 500 years ago the Incas visited this site to worship the cosmos, and
perhaps the moon goddess (Quilla) especially. Indeed, Quillarumiyoc is Quechua
for “stone of the moon,” and its most distinctive feature is a crescent that is
carved in the limestone rock. But in reality, very little is known about the site,
including whether Quillarumiyoc was its original name, or if lunar worship truly
was its main purpose. Few tourists visit the complex nowadays, but those who do
are treated to a spectacular display of stone terraces, water channels, caves, and
thrones set against the backdrop of rolling hills and forest.
I came
here in October 2017 at the start of my week-long trek through the Andes
Mountains. My group was traveling by bus to